The Case for California's Central Coast with Rachel Karten
Where to get the best ramen, barbecue, seafood towers, and stellar martinis two hours north of LA
Hello!
Is it just me, or does this feel like an incredibly frenzied final few weeks of 2023? I feel like I am back in college right now, where every professor assigns some giant project that is due asap, forgetting that you also have other professors doing the same thing, and you’re emotionally and mentally drained.
When I feel this stressed out, I find myself craving incredibly simple meals, often rooted in nostalgia, but slightly more elegant. Basically, like all the things you would eat after school but just a bit more adult. It’s a category of foods like to call Aprés School, if you will.
Sourdough English muffin pizzas with lots of melty havarti and za’atar (I am obsessed with this one from Burlap & Barrel), and a cute side salad. Quesadillas, but made with Siete’s almond flour tortillas and lots of pickled jalapeños. So many packs of Goodles mac and cheese (it’s like Annie’s but somehow better for you), with clementines or grapes on the side. Peanut butter toast topped with banana slices and chocolate chips. Maggi noodles (the BEST instant noodle) with a fried egg and sliced onions. I would love to know what your favorite Aprés School foods are, especially if you were also a fellow latch key kid.
This is also the time of the year where I like to day dream about fun trips I want to take next year. Japan has been on my bucket list forever, and I have a million things saved from there that I want to visit. I am also desperate to get back to Mexico City and to get to Austria/Germany for the holiday markets in between Thanksgiving and New Years. But, until then, I will be putting the final touches on my cookbook (we just finalized the back cover and it might be my favorite part of the whole book!), which comes out next year (!). I should have a pre-order link soon.
Okay! For this week’s newsletter we are escaping to the Central Coast of California, more specifically, Santa Ynez Valley, which is home to cute cute towns like Los Alamos, Solvang, and Los Olivos. It’s about two hours north of Los Angeles, and is a great weekend trip! My pal Rachel Karten, who writes one of my favorite newsletters of all time, Link In Bio, is often up there because that is where her parents live. She is very good at finding all the super cute, charming spots in the area and I am always screenshotting her stories to remember places. (If you haven’t subscribed to her newsletter, do so ASAP, because you are absolutely missing out on some of the best and most interesting content about social media that I have ever come across!!) Let’s get into it:
Santa Ynez Valley Essentials With Rachel Karten
Bell’s
The amount I talk about Bell’s is embarrassing! But it’s the French-ish bistro of my dreams. I like going for lunch where you can find hits like chicken liver mousse, steak tartare with fries, their shockingly good egg salad sandwich, plus one or two extremely delicious specials on rotation. The other day they posted a lamb “merguez” sandwich with tomato confit, anchoïade, yogurt, and mint that looked unreal. Eating all of that while drinking a crisp white wine on the patio? Perfect afternoon.
Ramen Kotori
When I am staying at my parents’ house in Los Olivos, there is usually one night of the week that’s reserved for picking up Ramen Kotori. The Solvang restaurant is owned by local husband and wife duo Francisco Velazquez and Ikuko “Erica” Velazquez and has some of the most comforting, fresh food in the valley. Our favorites are the mazemen, Japanese pickles, gyoza, and basically whatever fresh seafood Sea Stephanie Fish has brought in that day. Look at this local spiny lobster chawanmushi!
Lefty’s Coffee Co.
A perfect neighborhood coffee shop. Very solid espresso drinks and extremely welcoming. I typically just take a coffee to go but one day I will grab a cold horchata latte, take a seat in their backyard, and read a book!
Full of Life Flatbread
A lot of the produce you’ll find at LA’s farmer’s markets actually comes from the Central Coast. Which you’ll realize when you’re eating the most crisp lettuce and crunchy carrots at Full of Life Flatbread. I love getting the mushroom and onion flatbread and basically every single vegetable on the menu.
Bob’s Well Bread
Every time someone tells me they visited the Santa Ynez Valley they mention they go to Bob’s. It’s a classic for a reason! They’ve got great baked goods (I think my dad has an oatmeal raisin from there every day), tasty breakfast dishes (I like their breakfast sandwich with sausage), and fresh loaves of bread (I dream of their olive fougasse).
Priedite Barbecue
I plan my Saturday’s around this barbecue. Go early. Enjoy the free coffee and beer in line. Order big. Try a few tacos, get some meat by the pound (don’t sleep on the sausage), and order every single side (scallion potato salad! fennel jalapeño slaw!).
Bar Le Côte
I may be biased because it’s where I had my wedding rehearsal dinner, but this restaurant is just so special. I like to go for lunch and order a large seafood platter (the peel and eat shrimp are so good) with a side of fries (whatever spice they put on them is amazing).
WHERE TO DRINK
Hitching Post II
When I need my restaurant martini fix, this is where I go. Sit at the bar (you’ll be tempted to sit at a table if one opens up first, but I promise the bar is worth the wait), sip your martini, order the grilled artichoke, and split a huge steak. You’ll leave full and happy.
Presqu’ile
I’m embarrassed to say I haven’t been to THAT many wineries in the area. I know it’s kind of the thing to do (and probably a big part of why my parents moved up there) but I still have a lot of catching up to do. So far, Presqu’ile is one of my favorites to visit. The wines are delicious, the views are incredible, and the food is quite good.
The Bar at Mattei’s Tavern
One of my favorite bars ever. It’s cozy and sexy, especially in the winter when the fireplace is going. They have a drink called the “painted saddle” that’s pink peppercorn infused gin, fino sherry, dry vermouth, and bay laurel. One of the few martini riffs I’ve actually enjoyed.
WHERE TO SHOP
Campover
A store filled with lots of stuff you didn’t know you wanted. Like a Japanese stainless steel kettle, moroccan glassware (we bought these!), and solid dish soap in a porcelain bowl.
WHERE TO HIKE
Lover’s Loop
Lover’s Loop is a great short hike in the area! Bring lots of water because it can get super hot. If you time it correctly, there are amazing views of the California wildflowers.
WHERE TO STAY
Skyview Motel or Hotel Ynez
Owned by the same hotel group, both of these spots are great options when staying in the area. Skyview Motel is walkable to all of the spots in Los Alamos, whereas Hotel Ynez requires a car to get most places. Okay that is all for this week! Once I make it through all my deadlines, I plan on baking these cookies from Sohlae El-Waylly and sleeping! A lot! Please share this with anyone you’d want to go on a little weekend trip with to the central coast.
Next week I will be back with some more NYC and and LA-based content. As always, if there is a city or place you’d love to see a guide too, or a specific rec you might need, please email me or leave a comment below.
Now I'm craving a martini and a grilled artichoke. Thanks for having me!!